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Pelican statue and waterhole
in the main street of
Winton
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Winton
The
town where 'Waltzing Matilda' was written.
Located 849 km west of Rockhampton, nearly 1400 km
north west Brisbane and 186 m above sea level, Winton is the centre of
an important cattle and sheep raising region (although the annual
rainfall of 410 mm makes it prone to drought) and, since early
settlement, has been a vital transportation point.
Winton, originally known as Pelican Waterhole, owes its
existence to the abortive Burke and Wills expedition and the subsequent
expeditions which scoured central Queensland looking for the missing
explorers. During the early 1860s a number of explorers including
Frederick Walker, John McKinley and William Landsborough all passed
through the area. It was as a result of their reports that the area was
first settled in the mid 1860s although there is no formal record of
land leases until 1873.
In 1875 Robert Allen arrived in the area and became the
postmaster at Pelican Waterhole. The following year the waterhole
flooded and he was forced to move to higher ground. It is said that he
got tired of writing the long 'Pelican Waterhole' on letters and so he
renamed the town after the suburb in Bournemouth, England where he was
born. The town of Winton was duly gazetted in 1879.
Undoubtedly Winton's greatest claim to fame is its
association with 'Banjo' Paterson and particularly with the writing,
and first performance of, 'Waltzing Matilda'.
No one knows exactly what prompted Paterson to write
his tale of the swaggie who, rather than surrender to the police,
decided to commit suicide by jumping into a billabong. However the
blurry pieces of the puzzle are intriguing.
On 4 September 1894 the Brisbane Courier reported:
'Information has been received at Winton that a man named Hoffmeister,
a prominent unionist, was found dead about two miles from Kynuna. The
local impression is that he was one of the attacking mob at Dagworth
and was wounded there. There were seven unionists with Hoffmeister when
he died. These assert that he committed suicide.'
It is now widely believed that this story was the
inspiration for the song although the Winton town history (published in
1975) offers a more romantic version.
Paterson was staying at Dagworth Station (the ruins
are located approximately 100 km north west of Winton and can be
visited after permission is obtained from the North Australian Pastoral
Company on (07) 4657 1957) in 1895 when Christina Macpherson played the
tune 'Craiglea' for the guests. Paterson liked the tune and inquired
about the words. Macpherson explained that she did not know of any
words. This was enough to inspire Paterson.
The lyrics which he wrote were an intermingling of a series
of events which occurred while he was staying at Dagworth Station.
During his stay Paterson saw a sheep which appeared to have died but on
closer examination it had been killed, presumably by a swagman, and
portions of it carefully removed to give the impression of natural
death. This was possibly the inspiration for 'the crime'.
A second strand to the story focusses on Combo
Waterhole. This waterhole on Belfast Station 145 km north west of
Winton (it was opened for some years but damage by excessive numbers of
visitors saw its closure in September 1989) is clearly the setting for
the poem. It is argued that Paterson used the setting after he had been
told the story of Hoffmeister at Combo Waterhole by Robert Macpherson.
There has been some suggestion that the story Paterson heard was not
about Hoffmeister but about an unknown swagman and a stockman named
Harry Wood. Wood had beaten an Aboriginal boy named Charlie to death
and the Winton police, while trying to locate him, happened upon the
swagman sitting by the billabong.
It is also claimed that the expression 'Waltzing
Matilda' was first mentioned to Paterson at Dagworth Station by a
jackeroo named Jack Carter.
In a letter to The Australian in 1995, at the time of
the centenary celebrations of 'Waltzing Matilda', Dr Ross Fitzgerald,
Associate Professor of History and Politics at Griffith University in
Queensland, stated quite categorically: 'The song was written by Banjo
Paterson in January 1895 just 14 weeks after an armed battle at
Dagworth woolshed in September 1894 between striking shearers and the
station owners, the Macphersons. In the 'Battle of Dagworth' 140 lambs
were burnt to death, while one of the sixteen striking
insurrectionists, Samuel 'French' Hoffmeister died, supposedly by
committing suicide, beside a billabong near Macpherson's Dagworth Station.
'Banjo visited the homestead shortly after the
battle. While the site of old Dagworth Station where Banjo stayed is
now a heap of rubble, thants to Richard Magoffin's brilliant detective
work Samuel Hoffmeister's grave at Kynuna Station, on the southern side
of the Diamantina River, has been discovered, and a stone cairn placed
beside the billabong. The three policemen involved have been revealed
to be Senior Constables Austin Cafferty (number 420), Michael Daly,
(89), and Robert Dyer (175).
'It is clear that Miss Christina Macpherson, who had
heard the Scottish tune Craigilee played by a band at the annual
Steeplechase race meeting at Warrnambool Victoria in April 1884, met
Paterson when he visited her brother, Bob Macpherson, at Dagworth.
There being no piano at the homestead, the tune that Christina had
memorised she played to him on an autoharp, which is like a zither. To
this tune, as Magoffin and Clement Semmler demonstrate, Banjo added the
words to the song Waltzing Matilda, just 14 weeks after the Battle at
Dagworth Station.
'It is important to note that in the original verses
the swagman was camped in, not by, the billabong and that there were
three policemen, not - as one theory has it - one fictitious trooper
'number 123'....Contrary to the sanitised version of the so-called
'jolly swagman', which did not exist in Paterson's original version,
Waltzing Matilda is actually a powerful political allegory based on the
1894 Shearers' Strike.'
Things to see:
North Gregory Hotel
Whatever the real origins of the events and the images
Paterson wrote the song and it received its first public performance at
the North Gregory Hotel in Winton. The current hotel is the fourth
North Gregory (the other three either burned down or were destroyed)
but it is still on the location of the original pub. From photographs
the original North Gregory was a modest building with little more than
bark walls and a corrugated iron roof.
The Jolly Swagman
The swagman has been immortalised, albeit in
fibreglass, beside the swimming pool over the road from the Waltzing
Matilda Centre. Appropriately he sits near a very healthy looking
coolibah tree. However the more impressive display is at the centre
where the entire billabong scene is recreated.
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Statue of the 'Jolly Swagman'
in main street of Winton
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The
Waltzing Matilda Centre
Completed in 1998 at a cost of $3.1 million the
Waltzing Matilda Centre combined Winton's existing Qantilda Museum with
an impressive range of new attractions many constructed around the
story of the swagman as told in 'Banjo' Paterson's 'Waltzing Matilda'.
There is a Billabong Courtyard in which lifesize characters (ie the
troopers and the swaggie) and caught in action under a full-size
coolabah tree. The centre also is home to the Outback Regional Art
Gallery which concentrates on both historic and contemporary images of
Australian outback and rural life.
The Home of the Legend component of the Centre has a number
of famous Australian singing and talking while visitors watch holograms
of the past.
The Qantilda Museum, now renamed Qantilda Pioneer Place, is
a typical collection of memorabilia of the area including displays of
old machinery, a recreation of Christina Macpherson playing 'Craiglea'
and an extensive display of Qantas material. There are over 5000 items
in the collection which includes a special Aboriginal section and a
good reading room.
The Centre is open from 8.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. and, on
public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (07) 4657 1466.
There is also a gift shop and a restaurant.
Entry to the entire complex is $14.00 for adults, $12 for
children (under 14), students and concessions, and $30.00 for families.
Corfield & Fitzmaurice
Winton has a number of tourist attractions but
none quite compare with a visit to the store of Corfield & Fitzmaurice
in the main street. Corfield arrived in the area in the late 1870s and
established a general store. The original store was replaced in 1916
and the current building, now listed by the National Trust, is one of
the most perfectly preserved old-style general stores in Australia.
Winton Club
Winton is the birthplace of Qantas. On 16 November 1920
the Queensland and Northern Territory Air Service was registered as a
company with its headquarters in the town. The first official meeting
of Qantas took place at the Winton Club on 10 February 1921. The Club
still stands on the corner of Oondooroo and Vindex streets one block
north of the main street. It is open to visitors.
Royal Theatre
There are, as far as can be determined, only two
remaining open air picture theatres (not drive-ins but genuine open air
theatres with canvas seating) left in Australia. The famous Sun Theatre
in Broome and the Royal Theatre in Winton. It is a wonderful relic of a
past time which still has the original projection equipment.
Memorial Cairn
Of the other points of interest in the town there is
Memorial Cairn which records the town's involvement in the famous
shearer's strike of 1891. Over 500 shearers camped south of the town
for four months during the dispute and, although Winton was not greatly
affected by the strike, the Mounted Police arrived from Charleville to
keep order.
Lark Quarry Conservation Park
Located 110 km from Winton the Lark Quarry Conservation
Park with its famous Dinosaur Stampede is an interesting insight into
life in western Queensland some ninety five million years ago. This is
the largest group of footprints of running dinosaurs uncovered anywhere
in the world. First discovered in the early 1960s it was completely
excavated in 1976-77. Three species of dinosaur made the 1200 tracks -
a large flesh eating carnosaur and many small coelurosaurs and
ornithopods. Contact (07) 4657 1466 for more information.
The brochure on Lark Quarry explains the
footprints: 'Most of the footprints were made when a carnosaur trapped
groups of coelurosaurs and ornithopods on the muddy edge of a lake.'
The area is now protected from the weather and clear signs on a 650
metre track explain the events.
It can be part of a 380 km day long round trip to the
south of Winton which takes in the opal fields at Opalton, the Lark
Quarry site and the spectacular sights at Carisbrooke Station on the
Cork Mail Road.
Opalton Fields
The Opalton fields are a reminder of how things can
change in far western Queensland. Discovered in 1888 they were not
worked until 1893. By 1896 there were 500-600 men on the fields but the
inevitable problem of water (which had to be carted over 20 km) ensured
that when the price of opals dropped the field was abandoned. The
township has vanished and all that is left are some ruins and the
remains of mullock heaps where miners once fossicked for the precious opals.
Carisbrooke Station
Carisbrooke Station is now a wildlife sanctuary and,
with its bora rings, Aboriginal rock paintings, and dramatic scenery is
regarded by many of the Winton locals as a place which deserves to be
ranked with some of Australia's most interesting outback reserves.
Contact: (07) 4657 3984.
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Tourist Information
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Gift & Gem Centre
Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1296
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The North Gregory Hotel/Motel
69 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1375
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Waltzing Matilda Centre
Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1466
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Winton Shire Council Office
78 Vindex St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1188
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Motels
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Boulder Opal Motor Inn
Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1211
Rating: ****
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Matilda's Motel
20 Oondooroo St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1433
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North Gregory Hotel/Motel
69 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1375
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Outback Motel
95 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1422
Rating: ***
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Hotels
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Australian Hotel
70 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1214
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North Gregory Hotel/Motel
69 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1375
Rating: **1/2
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Tattersall's Hotel
78 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1309
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Winton Hotel
43 Werna St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1519
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Holiday Homes & Units
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Banjo's Overnight & Holiday Units
Cnr Manuka & Bostock Sts
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1213
Rating: ***
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Caravan Parks
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Matilda Country Caravan Park
43 Chirnside St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1607
Facsimile: (07) 4657 1607
Rating: ***1/2
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North Gregory Hotel/Motel
Unpowered sites
69 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1375
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Pelican Fuel Stop Caravan Park
Matilda Hwy
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1478
Rating: **
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Restaurants
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Banjo's Bistro, R.S.L. Club
Oondooroo St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1811
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Boulder Opal Motor Inn
Elderskie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1211
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North Gregory Hotel/Motel
69 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1375
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Tattersall's Hotel
78 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1309
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Winton Club
Vindex St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1488
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Winton Hotel
43 Werna St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1519
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Cafés
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Star Cafe
Oondooroo St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1521
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The Twilight Cafe
68 Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1301
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Waltzing Matilda Centre (Kitchen Cafe)
Elderslie St
Winton
QLD
4735
Telephone: (07) 4657 1466
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